Summer started agreeably cold and wet. It ended miserably hot and dry. To a gardener, the dryness has some redemptive value: It concentrates the sugars in grapes, melons and, of greatest relevance to most of us, tomatoes. When I traveled to the grand annual tomato-tasting event organized by Rutgers University recently, my hope was that the dry spell would result in memorably flavorful fruit…Jack Rabin, associate director of Rutgers’s agricultural experiment stations, took me to the Snyder Farm offices, where six bins held as many different grape varieties bred and under review by his colleagues. There wasn’t a bad one among them, but the second I tasted, known simply as No. 11, was my clear favorite – loaded with complex flavor in an insipid year. I sneaked a couple more.
/ / Grape tomatoes prevail this summer